How grapes became wine in Italy over 7,000 years

Wine is more than a beverage in Italy. It’s a cultural emblem, a historical constant, and an agricultural marvel. From rustic vineyard rows in the hills of Tuscany to sophisticated wine cellars beneath Rome, the Italian wine and grapes story is celebrated.

But few realize that this tale took shape over millennia. The wine we sip today results from thousands of years of patient transformation.

A new study published in the journal PLOS One uncovers this complex history. Led by Mariano Ucchesu from the University of Montpellier, the research team analyzed 1,768 grape seeds from 25 archaeological sites across Italy and San Marino.

These seeds spanned from the Early Neolithic to the Medieval period, covering around 7,000 years.

Using geometric morphometrics, the team compared ancient seeds to modern wild and cultivated grapes to track their evolution. What emerged was a slow, regionally varied shift from wild grape gathering to systematic cultivation and winemaking.

Early Italians used wild grapes for wine

The oldest grape seeds, from the Early Neolithic and Early Bronze Age, show no signs of domestication. Most seeds resembled those of modern wild grapevines, suggesting early communities did not yet cultivate vines.

Instead, people gathered berries from naturally growing plants. These seeds, preserved in waterlogged conditions, remained intact and highly informative.

In these early phases, no domestic-type seed was identified. The study used advanced linear discriminant analysis, trained on a balanced modern reference set, to classify seeds with over 95% accuracy.

Most pips from La Marmotta (Lazio) and Canàr di San Pietro in Polesine (Veneto) were wild. Even in the Middle Bronze Age, sites across Toscana, Marche, and Emilia Romagna showed only four domestic pips out of 142 examined – a number too small to indicate established cultivation.

This supports a picture of grape use as primarily foraged rather than grown. The absence of consistent domestic traits in northern and central Italy during this period points to a society still reliant on nature’s offerings rather than intentional farming.

Turning point in grape cultivation

One site, however, told a different story. Sa Osa in Sardinia revealed a turning point.

By the end of the Late Bronze Age (ca. 1300–1100 BC), nearly half the seeds from this site were domestic in shape and size. This marks the first significant appearance of cultivated grapes in the western Mediterranean.

The domestic seeds from Sa Osa showed a distinct morphology. They were longer and more elongated, with features typical of modern cultivated grapes.

Paleogenetic analysis revealed that some seeds shared chlorotypes with modern Armenian varieties. This suggests eastern Mediterranean grapevines reached Sardinia through trade or migration.

Several hypotheses exist to explain this. Local communities may have begun their own domestication process. Alternatively, they may have imported fully domesticated plants.

Or perhaps there was a blend – cultivated grapes from the east mixed with Sardinian wild varieties, creating new hybrids. Evidence of wine residue in Bronze Age Sardinian pottery supports the idea that these grapes were used not just for eating, but for fermentation.

Cultural exchange and early viticulture

Sardinia’s role in early viticulture may have depended on its strategic location. The island maintained trade connections with the Mycenaeans and Minoans during the Bronze Age.

These interactions likely carried not only goods but also agricultural knowledge. Techniques for pruning, vine training, and fermentation could have spread westward with sailors and merchants.

“The appearance of the first domesticated grapes during the Bronze Age, in Italian archaeological contexts, points to a long-standing tradition of Italian wine heritage within the broader landscape of Western Europe,” noted the researchers.

At Terramara Santa Rosa di Poviglio in Emilia Romagna, researchers found pollen matching female wild grapevines. This pollen came from flowers with inaperturate grains, a trait of uncultivated plants.

Its presence suggests people may have been managing or cultivating wild grapevines nearby – an early, experimental form of agriculture.

Expansion of grape farming

By the 4th century BC, Italy’s grape story had evolved. At Etruscan sites in Emilia Romagna, most seeds were domestic. This shows that true viticulture had taken root. Grape cultivation wasn’t just experimental – it was widespread and sophisticated.

Evidence from Cetamura in Tuscany backs this up. Genetic testing showed links between Etruscan grape seeds and both wild and domestic varieties. Morphometric analysis also aligned these seeds with modern cultivated grapes.

The Etruscans not only grew grapes but made and traded wine extensively. Their amphorae have been found across France, Spain, and North Africa.

This period marks a major shift in both grape farming and wine culture. Grapes were chosen for specific traits, possibly including flavor, productivity, and resistance. These communities were no longer passive gatherers of fruit. They were actively shaping grape biology and wine traditions.

Romans blended wild and domestic vines

Viticulture flourished under Roman rule. Between the 1st and 6th centuries AD, archaeological sites show a clear dominance of domestic grape seeds. However, wild seeds did not disappear. In places like Domagnano and Cervia, a significant number of wild or intermediate seeds were found alongside cultivated ones.

This mix points to a deliberate practice. Roman farmers may have cultivated wild vines to create new varieties through introgression. This genetic blending could result in grapes with novel traits—perhaps better suited to different soils or climates.

Interestingly, during Roman times, the difference in shape and size between wild and domestic seeds narrowed. This supports the idea that even wild-looking seeds were cultivated, though not fully transformed.

Wine was a booming industry, and farmers likely tried every possible way to enhance their yields and flavors.

Grapes and wine became fully domesticated

The Medieval period (8th–14th centuries AD) marked a high point in grape domestication.

Seeds from this era were almost entirely domestic in both shape and size. Sites in Trentino-Alto Adige, Emilia Romagna, and Sardinia all showed this trend.

These seeds closely resembled modern cultivated grapes, suggesting that experimental phases had ended. Farmers had identified and preserved varieties that worked well. Wild vines were no longer widely used. Grape cultivation had become standardized and entrenched in Italian agriculture.

Seed morphology over time supports this. Domestic seeds grew longer and more elongated. Wild seeds, when cultivated, also grew larger than their wild-growing counterparts. But by the Medieval period, the distinction between wild and domestic seeds was wide again, showing that viticulture had settled into a clear direction.

A legacy of patience and innovation

“This research has made it possible, for the first time, to trace the history of the origins of viticulture in Italy,” the authors write.

“The appearance of the first domesticated grapes during the Bronze Age, in Italian archaeological contexts, points to a long-standing tradition of Italian wine heritage within the broader landscape of Western Europe.”

Supported by the European Union’s Horizon 2020 program and the ANR MICA project, the study shows how cultural exchange, experimentation, and adaptation shaped Italy’s wine landscape. It emphasizes that domestication is not a moment, but a slow evolution.

“This research was made possible thanks to funding received through the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation program under the Marie Curie Fellowship (2021–2023 n. Agreement-101019563-VITALY) and supported by the ANR MICA project (grant agreement ANR-22-CE27-0026),” noted the study authors.

”The successful outcome of the research is also due to the valuable collaboration of the archaeobotanical colleagues from CNRS-ISEM in Montpellier and all the Italian colleagues who generously provided the archaeobotanical materials, valuable advice and suggestions for this research.”

Italian grapes evolved to wine

The domestication of grapes in Italy was not a single event. It unfolded over thousands of years, shaped by geography, trade, and curiosity. From wild vines gathered by Neolithic foragers to the disciplined vineyards of Medieval monks, the grape’s journey mirrors Italy’s own transformation.

Today, each glass of Italian wine carries that deep past. With every sip, you taste the result of ancient selections, cross-regional exchanges, and countless seasons of change. The story of the Italian grape is, in essence, the story of civilization itself – patient, rooted, and ever evolving.

The study is published in the journal PLOS One.

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